Essential Rope Rescue Equipment: Learn about static ropes, carabiners, pulleys, slings, and more for safe and efficient rescue operations
Rope
Types of Rope
In recent years, static ropes with kernmantle construction have been widely adopted in firefighting, replacing the traditional three-strand ropes. The significant difference between static ropes and three-strand ropes is the stretch rate of the rope.
NFPA Standards
- Static Rope: Stretch rate of 1% to less than 6% (at 10% of the minimum breaking strength load).
- Low Stretch Rope: Stretch rate of 6% to 10% (at 10% of the minimum breaking strength load).
These are categorized into two patterns.
Life Safety Rope Standards
- General Use (marked with “G”):
- Minimum breaking strength: 40kN or more
- Stretch rate: 1% to 10% (at 10% of the minimum breaking strength load)
- Diameter: 11mm to 16mm
- Technical Use (marked with “T”):
- Minimum breaking strength: 20kN or more
- Stretch rate: 1% to 10% (at 10% of the minimum breaking strength load)
- Diameter: 9.5mm to 12.5mm
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards)
- JIS L2704 Three-Strand Nylon Rope: Stretch rate of 35% to less than 45%
The major drawback of three-strand ropes is their high stretch rate, making them inefficient. High-stretch ropes are unsuitable for lifting or climbing. Moreover, the problem is not just the performance of the three-strand rope itself, but that most rescue equipment is manufactured overseas and cannot be used with three-strand ropes. Main descenders, braking devices, and ascenders used in rope rescue are all designed to comply with EN standards for static ropes and are not compatible with three-strand ropes.
Benefits of Static Rope
Static ropes reduce effort when using the proper equipment, support the weight of two people, and safely absorb the impact of falls. For example, using a pulley system allows two people to lift two others, make temporary adjustments, and release hands in emergencies. Even if the main anchor collapses and a rescuer falls, they can be safely and securely stopped. Static ropes enable tasks that are either simplified or impossible with three-strand ropes.
Carabiners
Carabiners are familiar tools for firefighters, used in setting anchors and securing themselves, even in traditional three-strand rescue operations.
Originally, carabiners were designed to hang guns on belts, with the name derived from “Karabinerhaken” = “Karabiner (carbine gun) + Haken (hook).”
Carabiner Parts
- Spine: The strongest direction, translating to “spine.”
- Gate: The opening and closing part of the carabiner.
- Nose: The point where the gate and body meet.
Types of Carabiners
- Oval Type: The initial shape of carabiners, ideal for balanced loads.
- Offset D-Type: Stronger and lighter, the mainstream model for carabiners.
- HMS Type: Pear-shaped, with a wide opening gate for easy rope handling.
Strength
The strength of a carabiner is directly marked on its body. For example, a carabiner marked with “kN⇔23 ⇕8” indicates:
- 23 kN (about 2 tons) strength in direction ①
- 8 kN (about 0.8 tons) strength in direction ②
The mark next to it shows the strength when the gate is open, usually about 1/3 of the strength with the gate closed. Therefore, locking carabiners are commonly used in high-load situations.
Prohibited Actions
- Open Gate: Using a carabiner with the gate open can cause it to break.
- Side Load: Reduces breaking strength and can cause failure.
- Connecting Carabiners: Twisting forces can cause them to break.
- Triple Access: Carabiners are weak to diagonal forces.
Tape Slings
Tape slings are versatile, strong bands often used with carabiners. The applications of slings are virtually limitless, and their use is only limited by creativity.
Materials
- Nylon: Heavier and bulkier than Dyneema but easier to grip and heat-resistant, suitable for anchor points.
- Dyneema: Lighter and stronger than nylon but heat-sensitive and less grippy.
Example Uses for Tape Slings
- Two Bights: 22kN → 44kN
- Four Bights: 22kN → 88kN
- One Round Turn: 22kN → 44kN
- Girth Hitch: 22kN → 16kN
Precautions
- The weakest part of a tape sling is the sewn section. Ensure the sewn part does not come into contact with supports or carabiners.
- Sand in fibers, UV degradation, and sharp contact points can weaken slings. Regular maintenance is essential.
Prusik Cord
Prusik cords wrap around ropes, tightening under load and loosening when released. They are used in various rescue operations, including load release devices, pulley systems, anchor systems, and tandem prusik belays.
Strength
The tensile strength of Prusik cords varies by manufacturer and diameter but generally ranges from 6.0 to 7.0 kN for 7-10mm cords. At loads over 1.0 kN, the Prusik cord may slip on the rope.
Tandem Prusik Belay
Used during rescues, tandem Prusik belays ensure the Prusik grabs the rope, preventing injury to rescuers’ hands. To avoid finger injuries, rescuers should keep their thumbs outside the rope and pointed upwards.
Rescue Pulleys
Rescue pulleys feature rotating side plates and sheaves (wheels) mounted on bearings. Rescue pulleys are superior to those using bushings. When using a pulley as a directional indicator, remember that the force on the pulley anchor is double the force on the rope. The tread diameter of the sheave (where the rope lies) is crucial. For optimal efficiency, the tread diameter of the rescue pulley should be at least three times the rope diameter. Some manufacturers may specify the outer diameter (OD), which can be misleading, so pay attention.
Swivels
Swivels are used in rope rescue to prevent the twisting of bearings within an enclosed structure. They help reduce dangerous torque and can be positioned opposite the connection point to manage rotation.
Webbing
Webbing is regularly used in rescue operations due to its versatility in creating safe anchor ties. Tubular webbing is easily identifiable by its hollow, tube-like structure. This webbing is easy to knot, handle, and comes in various colors.
Rescue teams use 25 mm (1 inch) tubular nylon webbing (needle loom construction), manufactured to military specifications, requiring a minimum breaking strength of 17.93 kN. Tubular webbing can be made using shuttle looms or needle looms, referring to the type of machine used to weave the webbing.
- Shuttle Loom: Traditionally used for military-grade webbing, producing a spiral weave pattern with “fill yarn” carried by a shuttle.
- Needle Loom: More efficient and cost-effective, needle looms use curved “needles” to weave the fill yarn back and forth. Improvements have led to Class 1A webbing with lock-stitched edges, meeting military specifications. Needle loom webbing is now common, fitting Mil-W-5625K.38 standards.
Webbing Products
Webbing products like anchor straps, daisy chains, and etriers are used in rigging. A daisy chain is a length of webbing with multiple pockets created by bartacking or weaving. The standard daisy chain by Yates Gear uses 11/16 inch nylon supertape tubular webbing, with a rated strength of 22.2 kN and individual pocket strength of 5.3 kN.
- OMNI-Sling™: A nylon daisy chain with rigging pockets by Rescue Systems, featuring 2-inch slots separated by 1-inch webbing, with an overall breaking strength of 44 kN and slot strength of 22 kN.
Ascenders
Ascenders are devices that allow movement in only one direction when attached to a rope.
- Mechanical Ascenders: Superior to prusik knots for quick climbing in reversible hauling systems. Handled ascenders, like Petzl Ascension, CMI Ultrascender, and ISC Ultrasafe Hand Ascender, are designed for easy attachment and detachment from ropes.
- Non-Handled Ascenders: Include CMI Ropewalker, Gibbs Ascender, and Petzl Ascender.
- Petzl Rescucender: A mechanical rope grab device that increases contact area with the rope to reduce damage risk, suitable for 9mm to 13mm ropes, with a recommended minimum diameter of 10mm.
Rigging Plates
Rigging plates help organize the central point of an anchor system, simplifying multiple tasks and connections at one point. First popularized by Rock Exotica in the 1990s, rigging plates come in various sizes with multiple connection points. Ensure not to exceed the safe working load of a single hole, especially when tension is released and reapplied, as carabiners can damage the plate.
CMC Clutch
The clutch integrates a one-way rotating pulley and descender, allowing for raising and lowering in a rope system without changing equipment. It can remain attached to an anchor while loading and unloading the rope. Speed is controlled by manipulating the control handle and rope friction, with an anti-panic brake that stops the rope if the handle is gripped too tightly. The Clutch 11mm can also handle dynamic ropes used for lead climber belays.
Double Clutch Descent System
When rescuers are limited, a double clutch system can be used for descent. One operator controls both clutch handles and rope tails, balancing the load without the challenge of equalizing load descent when operated by two rescuers.
TTRS: Twin Tension Rope System
This system divides the load 50% each between the main line and belay, reducing the impact and stretch on the remaining line if one fails.